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The last day of a cruise always seems to be busy.
Packing is easier from a cabin than from home where you are agonising about what to pack, or more importantly what not to pack! You see people busily finding their new friends to exchange addresses and telephone numbers. Those who have taken one of the courses offered are finishing off their projects,others are doing last minute shopping in the boutiques or snapping up bargains on the Sales stalls.
The usual programme of activities is available and we took advantage of this to go to a couple of talks in the morning. The first was from an English woman who has lived in Norway many years. She gave a humorous talk about life in Norway. The second talk was from the Gemmologist about Tanzanite. I only heard about this gemstone recently from one of Jennie’s friends. It is a beautiful clear blue stone which was discovered in Tanzania in recent decades whilst they were searching for sapphires. It is the only place it has been discovered so is quite rare. Much of it was bought by Tiffanys New York and there are doubts about how much more will be available.
After lunch we went to a talk about future cruises, which even tempted JW my usually reticent traveller husband.:)
After the talk there was a tea dance, where those who had been learning, or improving, could show off their new skills. The highlight of the tea dance was the afternoon tea where there was a most tempting array of dainty sandwiches and cakes plus a chocolate fountain with fresh fruit kebabs. Wicked temptation which few had the will power to resist! (I did manage to resist second helpings!!)
Most people gave generously to the raffles and sweepstake in aid of the RNLR which was held after this.
After dinner we watched the beautiful sunset and then later tried to work out where we were passing on the South East coastline.

 

Sunset over the North Sea

Sunset over the North Sea

This had been a short but memorable cruise . We had travelled 2,030N.M., learned a lot about the history of the West coast of Norway and made more new friends.

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I had not seen much of Stavanger on previous visits, a couple of times when I was working in Oslo (in the 60s) I had taken the little local plane from Stavanger and I had meandered around the area near the docks a few times, so we decided to go on an organised tour this time.
Our guide was Donald, a Scotsman who has lived in Norway for over 40 years. Once again we had a guide who was a mine of information about the history of the area and kept us interested between sights.
First we drove around the old town and admired the wooden buidings.

Old town

Old town

We saw the statue of a sea captain who had captured a German ship and then sailed across to join the Norwegian Royal Navy.

 

Statue of the sea captain

Statue of the sea captain

 

We crossed the long bridge and had a wonderful views both of the city and the fjords.

Stavanger Cathedral was built in 1125 by monks from Winchester, in particular Reinard. The king then was Sigurd who wanted to divorce his wife and marry a younger woman. His request had been refused by the Bishop of Bergen, so he told Reinard he could finish his cathedral if he would grant his divorce, so Sigurd got his new wife and Reinard got his cathedral! The cathedral is dedicated to St. Swithun ( the saint of my birthday!)

We drove around the outskirts past many large villas and the airport, (which looked rather more sophisticated than the field I remembered!) to the “Three Swords” monument. This is a monument where Harald Fairhair defeated the last of the regional princes and formed the Kingdom of Norway in 872.

 

Three Swords monument

Three Swords monument

 

Three Swords Monument

Three Swords Monument

 

The next stop was at Sola church which dates back to 1150. This little church was dismantled during the war, because the Germans thought it was a landmark for the airport, but the stones had been preserved and it has now been fully rebuilt and restored.

 

Story of Sola Church

Story of Sola Church

 

Sola Church

Sola Church

 

We drove back to the ships passing some beautiful beaches and Donald told us about the recent history of Stavanger, how the oil bonanza had allowed the government to improve the infrastucture, and propects for the people.  They had not lowered taxes, but had invested in good secure jobs, the national pension scheme, free education from six years old right through to university, excellent maternity and childcare benefits and the health service.

In the evening it was the Captain’s farewell party and then the dinner had its traditional culmination when the waiters paraded with the flaming “baked Alaskas”

 

photography by JW

 

 

 

 

We arrived in Bergen about 8am. We were blessed again with another bright sunny day. We have been fortunate in our visits to Bergen, in recent years, as we have only had rain once in this notoriously rainy town!
Bergen is Norway’s second largest city and is known as “the gateway to the fjords”. It is beautifully set within seven mountains. It has a long maritime history and was an important member of the Hanseatic league.
We decided to take the hop-on hop-off bus again, which starts from the quayside and travels around the harbour and town.

Haakonshallen

Haakonshallen

The bus takes you down the side of the harbour past Haakonshallen, a large ceremonial hall built in 1261,which was damaged in WW2 but has now been fully restored, past the Rosenkranz tower, which the hardy ones can climb for a fine view of the harbour! and on past the Bryggen. This was the heart of mediaeval Bergen and boasts the last surviving houses o the Hanseatic League.

Bryggen

Bryggen

Next comes the fish market. There were not so many stalls this time, maybe because it was not a main trading day, but there were still a few tanks of live fish. This had fascinated us when we first visited (50 years ago). One of our great pleasures used to be to stroll along the harbourside eating the very fresh prawns out of a paper poke, pretty much like we would eat fish and chips at the British seaside.

Live crabs

Live crabs

More crabs

More crabs

town train

town train…..alternative transport!

There are 14 stops on the route including the Aquarium, Fredriksburg Fortress, Museums, Art Galleries, Parks and shops, so lots of choice.

waterside

waterside

In the afternoon I treated myself to a foot massage in the Atlantic Spa. This is a lovely relaxing part of the ship offering all kinds of tempting spa treatments, given by their beautiful and kindly ladies.

Before dinner we had champagne and canapes delivered to our cabin, courtesy of Fred Olsen. We were joined by our friends, Eileen and Terry who we met on the previous cruise. Fred Olsen also presented us with a photo frame and voucher for a portrait photograph. At dinner the waiters serenaded us and served us with a cream cake.

The theme for this evening was Rock and Roll and there were several elderly “Elvises” complete with Elvis wigs. The crew were also dressed up in 60s costumes. The waitresses looked very pretty in their circular skirts over layers of stiffened petticoats. What memories this evoked. I remember as a student nurse how we pooled our stiff petticoats for the lucky girl with a date.:)

This had been a lovely memorable day, one of my favourite towns, sunny weather and celebrations with friends especially my best friend for 40 years, JW.

photography by Justwilliams.

Flam

Flam

We sailed down the mighty Sognefjord (the longest in Norway and one of the longest in the world) and arrived in Flam, a very pretty place, about 8am.

We had chosen to take a tour of the valley and up to Osterbo mountain lodge.
We travelled inland by the salmon River Aurland past the Vassbygda lake. Here we saw the electricity cables from the huge hydro-electricity plant, cunningly hidden inside a mountain!

Outside the mountain hydro electric plant

Outside the mountain hydro electric plant

We ascended the Laevesdal valley on the modern road system, partly through tunnels which wind up the inside of the mountains. Most of these roads and tunnels have been built since the oil started flowing in the North Sea. Instead of giving tax breaks when the country’s wealth improved, Norway invested the money in improving the infrastructure and built tunnels and bridges to connect the far flung places which were cut off in the winter by the heavy snowfalls and icy conditions.
We had wonderful views of Aurland and Vassbygda and arrived at the Aurland valley where the farmers take their animals for the summer grazing, 800m above sea level.

from the mountainside

from the mountainside

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IMG_4614w
We were given a warm welcome at the lodge, originally a farm, but now used to provide accomodation for hikers and skiers. We were served with waffles and coffee in the rustic dining room, and then went off to explore the roons with their collection of stuffed animals and then the outside views.

Ostebo lodge

Ostebo lodge

One of the out buildings

One of the out buildings

"Daddy Bear"

“Daddy Bear”

waitresses

waitresses

On the way back we stopped at Aurland village to look at the church. (JW took a picture of the bank to remind him of his fist vist to Norway, which was shortly after the banking crash in 2008, he saw all these Sparebanks and didnot know that “Spare” in Norwegian means “Saving”:)

The "Spare Bank!"

The “Spare Bank!”

We returned to the ship for lunch and then went for a stroll around Flam. We watched the mountain train arriving back. This is a very steep railway which climbs up to Myrdal to the Oslo to Bergen railway.

 

Flam

Flam

We bought more souvenirs and enjoyed the sunshine before returning to the ship.
We have now reached the Silver oceans membership level so were invited to the Cocktail party before dinner.
We were so entranced by the scenery as we sai,led back along the fjord, that we decided not to go to the Ballindaloch to eat, instead we went in later to the Chinese evening in Palms restaurant.
It had been a lovely sunny day, full of interesting sights.

Farewell to Flam

Farewell to Flam

photography thanks to Justwilliams.

Whilst we were in Haugesund the weather was dull, but mild and dry. Once we were back on board the rain started and continued, off and on through the night. It was still raining when we arrived in Olden and the clouds had descende almost to sea level. This gave a magical atmospheric look to the mountains, so that you could believe in the myths of the Trolls(bad) and the Nisses (good)

Season of Mists

Season of Mists

We had not booked any tours for Olden as we had been a few times before, so we decided to have lunch aboard ship and see what the weather was like later.

Before lunch there was a boat drill exercise for the crew and it was both interesting and reassuring to see how thorough and efficient it was.

Two ladies behind me on deck were discussing the mist and decided that there must be a foundry or something to make so much “smoke”. I suddenly realised that those who spent all their lives in towns had probably never seen low clouds drifting across their lawns, which had been a common sight when we lived in West Wales!

 

Olden-mist starting to lift

Olden-mist starting to lift

 

After lunch the clouds ascended and the sun came out so we decided to take one of the new sightseeing buses from the pier out to the glacier.

Quayside Olden

Quayside Olden

Balmoral in Olden

Balmoral in Olden

The tour lasted just over an hour. We drove out through the village past the old church and the new church alongside the beautiful Olden Lake to the end of the Nordfjord. By some trick of the light the lake was a glowing turquoise blue.

We saw the glacier from afar but did not make the hour long trek to cross it 🙂

On the way back we stopped to take photographs of the waterfall.

waterfall

waterfall

 

We returned to the quayside and bought a few presents in the souvenir shop and then back home to the Balmoral!

 

 

I got my usual thrill of excitement when we woke up to see the coast of Norway. When I used to travel over to Norway 50+ years ago on the Bergen Line we used to stop sometimes at Haugesund, but there was never enough time go ashore and explore and I knew little about the area, so I had booked us on an organised tour for the afternoon.
We arrived in Haugesund just before lunch and were welcomed by the town jazz band and girls in national costume.

Welcome to Haugesund

Welcome to Haugesund

Haugesund Jazz band

Haugesund Jazz band

 

After lunch we set off on our tour. Our guide was Celia and as usual she was excellent both showing us the sights and giving a potted history of the area. I had not realised before what an important part it had taken, particularly the Viking period, in the history of Norway.

We drove first around the old town on Risoy and then over the bridge to the main shopping streets. Our first stop was at the town hall and park, which had been given to the town by the shipowner Knut Knutsen andd his wife Elizabeth, who were great philanthropists.

Knut Knutsen

Knut Knutsen

 

Townhall

Town Hall

 

After leaving the town centre we drove out to an area which has been preserved for the enjoyment of the outdoor pursuits for which Norwegians are justly famed. We drove up a steep narrow road, which is prohibited to private mechanised transport. At the top we had a magnificent view over Haugesund and its surrounds.

picnic spot

picnic spot

 

View to the sea

View to the sea

 

From there we drove to Haraldshaugen to see the monument erected to mark the unification of the states of Norway by Harald Fairhaired in 872. This is a 17m high obelisk and is believed to mark Harald’s last resting place. The monument is surrounded by 29 stones to represent the 29 regions which were unified.

 

Haraldshaugen

Haraldshaugen

Ancient Cross

Ancient Cross

 

Olav Tryggvesen brought Christianity to Norway in the 12c. in the reign of Hakon the Good.

The area was the home of several Viking kings, and stone monuments, construction artefacts and sagas tell us much about the Viking era. Contrary to the tales we had in our history books they were not only “rapers and pillagers” but great seamen, fishermen, farmers and traders. They are believed to be the first Europeans to reach America (beating Colombus by several centuries!) and they traded in the East and Mediterranean as well as Britain and Ireland. They travelled, of course, in the famous long boats, which could reach incredible speeds.

An exact replica of a longboat has been built using the same methods and materials and is hoping to sail around the world.

Viking ship

Viking ship

 

Womens Suffrage came to Norway 100 years ago, largely due to the efforts of two spinster ladies (I think called Hanna and Babatka) who wanted to become ship owners. They managed to buy a ship through a male friend and became very successful business women. Another famous business lady was Amanda. It is claimed that women have always run things since Viking times when their menfolk were awy so much.

The modern city of Haugesund is relatively new. It started as farmland and then the herring came and the herring industry was founded which led to the boat building industry and now of course the oil, gas and renewable energy.

On the way back to the ship we saw a painting on a wall of Morris Rabinowicz. A Jewish immigrant who settled in Norway and built up a large clothing business which was very successful until WW2 when the Nazis deported him and his family  to the concentration camps.  The painting remains as a memorial and to remind people that they can start with nothing and build up a successful business.

This had been such an interesting tour and I had learned so much about Haugesund and Haugalandet.

photography by Justwilliams

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the first evening we met our two friends,Eileen and Terry, from the Highlands and Islands cruise which we took in July. We also met our new dining companions. Through the night we sailed along the South coast and turned into the North Sea. As usual I slept like a top, (I really should spend more time on the sea!)
We were very fortunate as the sea was calm, just enough movement to let us know that we were not on dry land.
I enjoy these days spent at sea. Even though Balmoral is one of the smaller cruise ships and does not boast an ice rink, climbing wall or shopping mall etc. everyone is catered for on the entertainment side.
There are talks about the ports we will visit, specialist talks (this cruise we had a gemmologist and a lady with humorous snippets about Norway. You could learn pyrography, learn to dance, improve your bridge, play deck games, be pampered in the Spa, or just relax and listen to music. I like to talk to the other passengers. They are an eclectic mix from all walks of life. Most are just ordinary folk like us, nurses, teachers, hairdressers, policemen, postmen etc. One of the common themes of these conversations was the differences in training and working conditions when we trained and now. In all the different jobs we had strong discipline and low wages, but we had job satisfaction and most said that they would not want to enter those jobs in today’s conditions. We had far less interference from government agencies.
Another common theme was the fact that, for a generation who were brought up with an abhorrance of debt and a tradition of saving, they had seen their savings and pensions eroded by minimal interest rates and government measures such as QE, and had decided that they might as well enjoy their savings before they disappear altogether!
That evening was the Captain’s welcome cocktail party where we met the Captain and senior staff. This was one of the formal evenings where we all doffed our evening suits or smart dresses. I think most of the women enjoy this chance to “dress up” and the menfolk put up with it!
In the evening there is a choice of entertainments in each of the bars or theatre, from a string quartet to a revue by the entertainment staff.
For anyone who can manage more food there is a supper club at 11.30pm.

When we were on the Highlands and Islands cruise in July I was given “an offer I could not refuse” and booked another cruise. JW and I were due to celebrate our 40th wedding anniversary in September, so where better than on the Balmoral cruising up the coast of my favourite country?
I am normally quite an optimistic person, but where holidays are concerned that natural optimism seems to desert me.
We had already celebrated on the actual day with Jennie and family, so I began to wonder whether I had let my enthusiasm run away with me.
As this had been a last minute booking (at an anchor price) I could not choose the cabin, only the grade. I usually choose an outside cabin on the main deck, midships, but this grade has cabins two decks higher, which are larger but may have an obscured view. That was worry number one!
Worry number two was the weather. We had lousy weather in the weeks preceding departure, rain and howling gales. I have crossed the North Sea many times before and it can be quite horrendous.
Worry number three was what to do on shore if the weather was atrocious.
When we left Cardiff the sky was grey and did not look very promising, but as we crossed the bridge into England a watery sun showed briefly and there was, (as my mother used to say) enough blue sky to patch a sailor’s trousers.
The now familiar journey went well and about three hours later we were driving into the cruise terminal road.
The porters took our luggage and ABP met us and took away the VW, leaving us to go through security etc. and forty five minutes later we were boarding Balmoral.
The cabin was indeed larger than we had had before and the partial obscuring of the view was neglible as the window was larger than those on the lower decks.

The cabin

The cabin

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From the window end

From the window end

There was a beautiful floral arrangement (compliments of Fred Olsen) and a charming letter enclosing a voucher for a free formal portrait and inviting us to inform them which day we wuld like to have champagne and canapes delivered)

floral display

floral display

Before the boat drill we availed ourselves of a  “cuppa” and a snack, and then at 5pm we watched the casting off and sail away and then back to the cabin to unpack and get ready for dinner.

My worries had (as usual) been needless.  The car had not broken down, we had arrived in plenty of time, the cabin was lovely and everyone was as friendly and welcoming as ever. 🙂

Two weeks ago I had a lovely birthday.  It began with cards, flowers and presents and then a superb lunch, cooked by Jennie and GG for the extended family where we ranged in age from 8 weeks to 91 years. This reminded me of previous birthdays (of which there have been many :))

When I was a small child, in wartimes, it was usually an extended  family tea. My mother used to hoard any extras to the rations over the weeks before to put on a special spread. Sometimes this had been supplemented by food parcels from my father who was on the North Atlantic convoys. I don’t know how legal this was but he bought food and presents on his shore leave in America. Often he was given extras by the kind family, the Winfields who befriended him in New York. He also seems to have made a friend of the ship’s cook because I remember at least one splendid coconut cake we received. I was lucky to be a summer baby because there were always stawberries and raspberries. No cream or icecream, just top of the milk (in those unhomogenised days), evaporated milk or “mock cream”.

I usually had a new dress for the occasion. This was either one my clever Mum had made or another of those parcels bought in America.

Another time my father bought me a new birthday outfit was for my 16th birthday. Dad came home from work on the Friday and asked if I would walk up to the post office with him. I was wearing an old cotton dress and wearing a rather ancient pair of sandals, but as it was only a walk to the post office, I jumped up and went with him. When we had completed his business he suggested that we walk up the road and look at the shops. I began to feel uneasy when we carried on up the road and into the city centre. In those days a “trip to town” entailed dressing up a bit. My mother always wore a hat and gloves and I at least had a wash and brush up!

He then proceeded into one of the department stores, with me trailing reluctantly behind, and we bought a new dress, jacket and shoes. I think the assistant must have thought I was some urchin he had taken pity on, (but it was a very nice outfit!)

When I reached my teenage years most of my friends were members of the school guide company (99th Nottingham) and several of us had birthdays within 10 days  in July so we sometimes celebrated together. They were a super crowd and now 65 years since we left school  and even though we are very scattered geographically, many of us have kept in touch with each other. Not all of us with everyone but each to a few so between us we convey news between us. Some, sadly, are no longer with us but the only two I haven’t had news of recently are Halina our Polish friend and Chris Bond who I saw briefly when Jennie was a baby, so if anyone has news of them I would love to hear it.

When I was a student nurse I was usually working on my birthday, but we usually had a pyjama party in the Nurses’ Home after work.

On my 21st bithday I was working on the Obstetric ward at the QE in Birmingham. After report I walked onto the ward feeling a bit miserable that this momentous day should be passing without acknowledgement, when the patients started singing “Happy Birthday”  and one of the Midwifery Sisters followed me in carrying an iced cake and suddenly I was inundated with cards and flowers and presents.

In the intervening years I have celebrated my birthday in various parts of the UK and Norway  My last birthday with Dr Alf was celebrated in spectacular fashion at Glyndebourne. It was Dr Alf’s 40th year in General Practice and I was leaving London 1 month later, so he arranged what he called a staff outing on my birthday, which happened to be a Sunday. It felt very strange to be walking out of our flat in evening dress on a Sunday afternoon, but we had a lovely time.

Now we have come full circle and Jennie is arranging family parties and we are so lucky that we get on well with GG’s family and share with them.

Statue of Bamse in Honningsvag

When we saw this statue of Bamse on our recent holiday I vaguely remembered hearing about him when a matching statue was installed in Montrose, Scotland a few years ago but could not remember the whole story, so I ordered a splendid book about him…. “Sea Dog Bamse, WW2 canine hero”  by Angus Whitson and Andrew Orr.

He was a 14 stone St. Bernard who was originally bought as a family pet by Captain Hafto. He was a gentle giant and had a remarkable affinity with humans and appointed himself as guardian to the four children, shepherding them around and giving rides on his back, carrying shopping home in the panniers on his back and pulling a sledge in winter.

When Germany invaded Norway Captain Hafto was recalled to the Norwegian navy. He was to take command of the Thorodd a former whaling ship which was fitted out for coastal protection. He took Bamse with him and in February 1940 Bamse was formally entered on the ship’s muster roll. A broom cupboard was fitted out as a cabin for him as a kennel, where he could retreat in bad weather (He suffered badly from sea sickness).

In the 62 days between the invasion and capitulation Bamse built his reputation for “fearless in action” and “steadfast under fire”. He refused to go below decks and took his place by the Oerlikon gunner, snarling at the enemy, wearing his steel helmet, hackles erect. He inspired the crew with his courage. Many of these were only boys and probably scared to death and Bamse was a kindly confidante.

There were some Allied victories around Narvik but by 3rd June the order was given for the Allied forces to withdraw and 7th June the Norwegian Royal Navy was ordred to save their ships and make for Britain. The Norwegian Royal family, government and diplomats and most of the gold reserves were spirited away from Tromso by HMS Devonshire.

Thorodd managed to sail over to Scotland and whilst she was being converted to a mine sweeper the crew had to get used to life in Britain. Bamse soon adapted to this very different lifestyle, learned to ride on a bus, ride on a train and got a liking for beer. He regularly accompanied the crew to the pub and shepherded them safely back to barracks! If he had stayed on board he would go out on “curfew patrol” and make sure that his crew was back on time. He could not bear violence and fighting and stories are told of how he would deal with any troublemakers. He was never aggressive, it was enough that he would raise himself on his hind legs to his full height of 6 feet, place his huge paws on the miscreant’s shoulders and push him away. He would also take his turn at guarding the gangway. He planted himself at the top of the gangway and refused to allow anyone onboard until given permission by the sailor in charge.

Bamse had an enormous appetite and quickly developed friendships with several food shop owners and made his daily round of visits. 🙂 Luckily he had a liking for fish.

Bamse’s fame spread and he became a symbol of hope for many of the exiled Norwegians. On at least two occasions he is credited with saving the lives of “his” human friends. The first was when he was following a sailor back to the ship. A ruffian attacked the sailor with a knife.  Bamse saw what was happening and bounded along the quaysideto his rescue. He raised himself onto his hind legs and pushed the attacker away and over the edge of the quay.

The second time was when a seaman fell overboard into the fast flowing river. Bamse was the only one to see it and after barking furiously to raise the alarm he leapt over the meter high gunwale and managed to keep the seaman and himself afloat until they could be rescued.

By 1944 Bamse’s health was failing, in common with many large breeds St Bernards are not long lived and he was about 7 years old. By this time they were docked in Montrose and when Bamse died they had a funeral for him which was attended by many sailors and towns people, there are reports that when he was buried there was a crowd of several hundred spread among the dunes.

The grave has been maintained to this day and in 2006 a statue of Bamse facing Norway was was unveiled by Prince Andrew in Montrose. He was also awarded a post humous gold medal from the PDSA. In 2009 a matching statue was erected in Honningvag (facing South East towards Montrose)